Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Whine and Dine

Recently having dinner out, I had the pleasure of ordering a nice glass of wine at a local eatery.
The wine was good, no problems there, but when i received the bill my heart fluttered, I thought for sure this was the big one, the wine was priced at $8.50. What further upset me was that the glass was only half full.

Understand, I don't consider myself cheap, just frugal, and $8.50 a glass for wine that was okay, just good, I consider highway robbery, especially since I could buy the entire bottle at a wine shop for about the same price. Now don't get me wrong, I am not against making a profit, but really that does not entice me to buy again. Repeat business I would think should be a major concern, especially at an establishment that has pretty good food, one that I am likely to revisit time and again. Maybe I am way off base, but in an economic climate where families are carefully watching every penny, would it not, should it not be a more logical approach to keep costs affordable so that add- ons to the tab such as drinks, wine, dessert come more freely?

I would completely understand the charge of $7 or more per glass of wine if the wine were a special vintage or even a better than average table wine. It seems to me that tripling or quadrupling the cost of wine by the glass is counterproductive to the whole dinner out regime.
It really makes more sense to me to sell the entire bottle, even at a premium, if its makes the dinner outing a more pleasurable experience for the patron. In my opinion, this would demonstrate to me that the restaurateur wants my repeat business and is willing make it easier for me to return.

Maybe part of the problem lies with the buying public since they know little about the product they consume, and especially little about the quality and cost of that product. I often see folks out for a nice night on the town, enter a restaurant and allow the waiter, generally some young teen or twenty something to choose the appropriate wine for the meal, what a mistake. How could that individual with such limited life experience choose, better yet why would he not choose the most expensive product for you, since by adding to the tab adds to his tip?
That is not to say that every young waiter is completely void of what may or may not be appropriate, just that it leaves way too much to chance. It is far better for each of us to learn the basics of what we like and don't like and the cost we are willing to pay for our education.

While traveling I find that better to upscale hotels often are notorious for raping their clients pocketbooks by charging excessively for mixed drinks and wine. It almost seems t0 me that they go overboard trying to use it as a way to assure a good bottom line. Recall the last time you perused the mini-bar, remember what those teeny bottles cost? After looking through the cost list, you may have decided to go downstairs to the hotel bar instead, only to find the watered down premium drinks aren't much better, and the wine, because you ordered the house Merlot, wasn't up to par either and almost as expensive.

My bottom line is I want value for the dollar I spend, and I feel strongly that every restaurant, hotel, or airline should consider my repeat business as more important than my initial visit. They provide both a service and a product to me and have the responsibility to demonstrate that they appreciate my patronage and want me back. This is no more than my present clients have the right to expect, no more than you should expect when spending your hard earned cash. We need to get back to this sound basic business ethic that provides a foundation for a successful repeat business. Attract customers don't deflect them. Reward customer loyalty don't take advantage of it.

Tell me what you think. Am I right?

Til Later

D.S.

Monday, February 16, 2009

The Grapes of Whine

Hello again, lets get right to it. I don't know about you, but I get a bit incensed when a "oenophile" makes me feel inferior because I am not aware of each grape variety and blend, where its from and why, and what vineyard creates it. I do enjoy investigating new wine choices and can only be enriched by the knowledge of the grapes used and method of vinification, especially if I enjoy the wine, since it can only help me when choosing like wines for future consumption. But lets be realistic here, its not my profession, just my passion, and there are thousands of documented varieties within species of grapes, and yet we the consuming public really only focus on a hand full of them. Think about it, when you walk the aisle of your favorite wine store, do you really think in terms of which grape growing region you want to focus in on, or are you like most of us and think about which, red or white wine we like, which Merlot, or Chardonnay we prefer?

When you are reading the menu at your favorite restaurant and glance at the wine list, where do your eyes generally go? Few of us feel comfortable enough to vary from the favorites we usually order. In fact many simply defer to the "House" red or white and order a glass. Why? Generally because we either don't feel comfortable to order any variable, or we aren't adventurous enough to expand our options. Lets change that, let us review some basic information regarding grapes and their ultimate product, our wine, and allow it to make you better informed and more confidant when choosing something different, but equally exciting to drink.

Different varities of grape have differing aroma and flavor characterisitics. Supposedly "varietal" character is somewhat predictable. Varietal, means principally from one variety of grape, with the wine having the name of that grape, an example would be burgundy, or chardonnay. While this is theroretically true factors such as the location where the grapes are grown, the treatment of those vineyards, the skills of the vineyardist and the equipmant and techniques used by the winemaker all must be factored in. The resultant wine may have some of the varietal characterisitics but more often than not, it ends up as a clonal variation, slightly the same but different. Thats why you can purchase chardonnay's from a dozen different winery's and have a dozen different tastes each with its own characteristic aroma.

Varietals

Merlot in the United States is often viewed as the " generic red wine" of choice. It is a close relative to Cabernet Sauvignon but is lower in tannins ( basically polyphenols, or acids) which makes wine that matures faster and is softer, dryer, and smoother as it goes down.
It is the major grape variety grown in the Bordeaux area of South West France, and is grown in California, Chile, Italy and Australia. The grape grows best in rocky, arid ground but is fairly adaptable. The growers main concern is its susceptability to crushing or breaking due to frost, rain or early heat. The merlot berry is reasonably thin-skinned and somewhat prone to rot and mold or other fungus. The wine is usually medium red in color, medium bodied and made for early drinking rather than storing and maturing slowly. It is generally served at room temperature or slightly cooler than room temperature depending on personal taste. Oh, and so I don't get swamped by nay sayers I did not say chilled, just a little above room temperature to properly appreciate its varied aromatic characteristics.

Chardonnay is the classic white wine grape and is widely planted in the Burgundy and Chablis regions of France. It is also grown successfully in California (of course) and Oregon, as well as South America and Australia. The varietal is planted in cool climate regions, usually where the days are warm and the nights are cool. This produces a rich wine with a distinct aroma, possesssing a fruity character (ex: apples, lemons, peaches, or citrus) most often aged in small oak barrels influencing a vanilla flavor from the oak. A good chardonnay has an unmistakable taste because of its sugar / acid balance, its full body and its easy smoothness. The wine is often dry and golden in color and some producers put some of their Chardonnay through MLF or malolactic fermentation, essentially it subjects the grape with bacteria during fermentation which actually softens its acidic qualities, and brings out a rich, buttery taste. This also shortens the life of the wine as far as aging is concerned. In places like Australia, the warm irrigated regions are readily producing this softer richer chardonnay without the need for MLF, and in their own cooler regions the more acidic, crisp and fruity chardonnay. In France the finer Blanc de Blanc Champagnes are made only from Chardonnay. While wood aged Chardonnay is the staple, many consumers are demanding less use of wood which slightly lowers the level of quality and provides a more bland run of the mill taste. In the case of chardonnay, the tried and true methods provide the the better quality and therefore the higher cost. Chardonnay is generally served chilled.

By far the premier red wine grape is Cabernet Sauvignon. It is the most widely planted varity in the Bordeaux region of France, as well as the most successful red wine produced in California. The grapes are small and round with a thick, tough black skin. This toughness makes it fairly resistant to disease since it likes a moderately warm growing season and needs to be well drained from seasonal rains and storms. It develops a very complex bouquet and a multi-berry (dark cherry, black currant) fruit taste that tends to be very tannic or acidic and requires a long slow maturation period. It is very common for Cabernet Sauvignon to age for 18 months or more in small oak barrels to acheive the complex quality of the wine before bottling. Some bottle age the wine for 5-10 years in order for it to reach its peak flavor. I've been told that some of the best vintages in the U.S. come from the New York, mainly Long Island vineyards. The wine has a great aroma, a rich taste, with a hint of a bite as it finishes in the mouth. This outstanding wine is a favorite of collectors as it ages well in the bottle, and actually has a bit of snob-appeal. It is definately a room temperature wine, as chilling will obscure the deep flavors and aroma.

Riesling, also known as Johannisberg Riesling, is considered a noble grape as it has produced some of the rarest and most expensive wines. It is the dominant grape variety in Germany and in other cool regions of Central Europe, and is grown in North-Eastern France, Califorinia and Australia. Riesling can be produced from bone dry to very sweet, but are usually made in dry and semi-dry styles. The cooler temperate climates of North America produce a fruity dry wine with high acid and low alcohol similar to the German "Kabinett" versions, while the semi-dry style is like the German "Spatlese" wines that are sweeter but not overmuch. When Riesling grapes are subjected to a non-toxic mold (Botrytis cinerea) that usually springs from rain after a dry spell, the result is that the grapes shrivel, much of the juice evaporates and the sugars concentrate creating intense but concentrated flavors of a sweeter but long lived wine. Riesling has a powerful and distinctive floral and apple-like aroma, and can be spicey in taste depending on the vineyard. One of my favorites is the Blue Nun Riesling, a great everyday, lets have a drink kinda wine. I enjoy my Riesling chilled, and I'm sure you will too. Just a caution though, when using a good Riesling with dinner, its best if the meal is delicate since the wine has more taste and you wouldn't want the flavors to clash.

When done properly Pinot Noir is one of the best but most difficult grape to grow for wine.
It appears that it grows best in the Burgundy region of France, primarily in an area known as Cote d'Or (Slope of Gold). Here is where consistant success is acheived with this finicky grape.
The vineyards in this area slope gently down towards the East, where the vines are provided with long sun exposure but not the afternoon heat. The soil is chalky providing good drainage which allows the grapes to mature over a longer period of time, helping them to reflect the flavor of the soil more so than any other black grape. Pinot Noir is susceptable to almost every affliction known to vines, spring frosts, bugs, viruses, even birds, all can alter or ruin the grape.
Then if the grapes aren't picked promptly when mature they have a tendancy to shrivel and dry out leaving a raisiny aroma and a somewhat nuetral flavor. Even fermentation is difficult due to the 18 amino acids, which are naturally balanced in this variety. What does all this trouble leave us? Perhaps one of the most complex and intense wines with a with a great black-cherry aroma accented by a spiciness that suggests cinnamon. It is full bodied and rich, but not heavy or full of acid, leaving a soft velvety texture. It caresses you as you drink, leaving a smooth yet elegant taste in your mouth. It is produced in California, Oregon and Australia, but these variety's often lack the attributes of the French. Since it is such a finicky grape it does not have the longevity of some other red wines and usually reaches it peak in about five years.

Shiraz, as its known in Australia, or Syrah from France is a rapidly growing variety of wine. It is a intense wine with deep violet, nearly black color, and a rich flavor that tends to lean towards more spicy than fruity. It is a riper tasting wine yet in warmer Australian climates grows sweeter than the French variety. If you like a full bodied beer, perhaps a dark beer, you will like Shiraz or Syrah. Even though it is associated more with Australia and France, it is also produced in South Africa and California.

Zinfandel was at one time considered a mystery grape. Many say it comes exclusively from California, but most agree that it is a clone variety from the Italian Primitivo grape. The grape makes a good solid red wine and is often used as a blend for jug wines, basically common drinking wines. It has a fruity raspberry like aroma and flavor and generally can be enjoyed as a young wine. Home wine makers like the grape since its hardy and can be shipped without damage . It thrives in both cool to warm climates but does not like excessive heat. Zinfandel is a good basic all around wine to open with company or drink alone. Even though its red I enjoy mine slightly chilled, and its great with just appetizers or grilled steak in a full blown meal. In more recent years white Zinfandel has become very popular. Its really a rose that is slightly sweet with an acid balance.

Now we have only discussed a few more popular wine varietals, there are many more, but maybe you can see with the little we discussed, how these named brands so to speak may imply a purity of variety, even though in reality most are clones or blends. It simply gives less credence to the purists who feel that only by knowing the particular vineyards, the specific grape, and even the winemaker, gives you the right to call yourself an appreciator of wine. I strongly feel that knowing the basics provides an excellent foundation to knowing what you like and becoming your own expert in wine tasting. Do you agree? No? Yes? Let me know.

Monday, February 9, 2009

Drink and Enjoy affordable wine, and a little whining too!

It seems daunting to choose the appropriate wine. Is it red with meat and white with fish, as they say? If so what about the rose colored wines, the pink, and the not so white wines, where do they fit in? Most importantly does it really matter? How can I choose a wine I will like, and will it be affordable?

First don't be intimidated, as in most things use what you know. We have always heard that the best wine comes from France, and while many may be excellent, some just are not. Think about the kinds of food you enjoy. Is it French food, Italian, continental cuisine such as beef, pork, or lamb? Or maybe its ethnic food, Greek, Indian or Thai? Use these food groups to help you to focus in on the lessor known regions that produce wine, for example if you are a hearty meat eater regions such as Germany, Argentina, even South Africa provide some excellent choices. As a pasta man myself, the Italian wines provide some great affordable choices for me, especially the heart healthy reds., as do the South American wines, especially from Chile. Fish folks have an awesome choice of white wines, since these are generally lighter and smoother to the taste.
Both Australia and California produce very good white wines.

Not being a fish person, yet still enjoying a nice white wine, i prefer to use them in social settings with canapes or appetizers, even to just enjoy as an everyday wine. One of my favorites comes from the Rhine River area of Germany, its the famous Blue Nun in the beautiful blue bottle.
Blue Nun is a medium bodied white wine, slightly dry but not overmuch with a nice scent and a delicious taste. Its great to drink on its own, yet blends particularly well with cheesy appetizers like potato skins or cheese sticks. Its great with shrimp, i enjoy the pre-cleaned and cooked, lazy I guess, and any other seafood such as lobster or cracked crab legs, yum. I like to have on hand a few butter crackers or saltines ready to clear my palate before moving on to any other food, or even to use to keep my mouth free of any flavor other than the wine itself. If you find the original Blue Nun to be a little to dry for your taste, try Blue Nun Riesling, its a bit more fruity and lively yet still crisp. Just as versatile as the original but made with Riesling grapes that give it a more medium of the road taste without that tart dry aftertaste some wines have. Note though, that these are great drinking wines and sorry they are not sweet wines, but have a refreshing every day taste to them. While I am plugging one of my favorite vineyards, let me not forget their Rose and Pink blends that are lighter and have varied fruity tastes that make them easy-drinking wines either on their own or with food. Most white wines that are not Champagnes, are usually best served chilled, rather than at room temperature. Seems to bring out the luscious flavors and scents.

Blue Nun wines are very affordable, usually in the $7 - $10 range per bottle.

Now the whining part, he he. There are many affordable wines on the market. I often sample delicious choices while traveling. If your like me though, you can never find that particular wine when you return home. I live in a area where the wine and other spirits are controlled by the state, The LCB or Liquor Control Board. They determine which wines and spirits are purchased and sold within the state, based on the discounted wholesale cost they pay, which of course determines their profit margins. So what you see on their shelves are the wines they make the most on, with the volumes they can maintain throughout the state. That of course limits what they purchase and bring in, since they only have so much shelf space to fill. So often times what you find to drink while traveling cannot be found at home. That's not fair.

Its true you can ask them to special order your wine, but after the shipping and handling and the enormous state tax you probably want to put it in a lock box at the bank instead of drinking it.
Even home delivery, you know the companies who can ship directly to you, has to go through the state process or they cannot ship into the state at all. This makes the wine unaffordable and often not available at all, that's especially sad if what you found was a great tasting and affordable wine. I guess there is always traveling to the next state to buy your wine, but sometimes that's not an option or even not legal to do, so check first.

What about you, what do you like to drink? What have you found to be an inexpensive yet crowd pleasing wine ? And yes what are your whines about wine?

Let us know, soon.

Til Later

David