The Grapes of Whine

Hello again, lets get right to it. I don't know about you, but I get a bit incensed when a "oenophile" makes me feel inferior because I am not aware of each grape variety and blend, where its from and why, and what vineyard creates it. I do enjoy investigating new wine choices and can only be enriched by the knowledge of the grapes used and method of vinification, especially if I enjoy the wine, since it can only help me when choosing like wines for future consumption. But lets be realistic here, its not my profession, just my passion, and there are thousands of documented varieties within species of grapes, and yet we the consuming public really only focus on a hand full of them. Think about it, when you walk the aisle of your favorite wine store, do you really think in terms of which grape growing region you want to focus in on, or are you like most of us and think about which, red or white wine we like, which Merlot, or Chardonnay we prefer?

When you are reading the menu at your favorite restaurant and glance at the wine list, where do your eyes generally go? Few of us feel comfortable enough to vary from the favorites we usually order. In fact many simply defer to the "House" red or white and order a glass. Why? Generally because we either don't feel comfortable to order any variable, or we aren't adventurous enough to expand our options. Lets change that, let us review some basic information regarding grapes and their ultimate product, our wine, and allow it to make you better informed and more confidant when choosing something different, but equally exciting to drink.

Different varities of grape have differing aroma and flavor characterisitics. Supposedly "varietal" character is somewhat predictable. Varietal, means principally from one variety of grape, with the wine having the name of that grape, an example would be burgundy, or chardonnay. While this is theroretically true factors such as the location where the grapes are grown, the treatment of those vineyards, the skills of the vineyardist and the equipmant and techniques used by the winemaker all must be factored in. The resultant wine may have some of the varietal characterisitics but more often than not, it ends up as a clonal variation, slightly the same but different. Thats why you can purchase chardonnay's from a dozen different winery's and have a dozen different tastes each with its own characteristic aroma.

Varietals

Merlot in the United States is often viewed as the " generic red wine" of choice. It is a close relative to Cabernet Sauvignon but is lower in tannins ( basically polyphenols, or acids) which makes wine that matures faster and is softer, dryer, and smoother as it goes down.
It is the major grape variety grown in the Bordeaux area of South West France, and is grown in California, Chile, Italy and Australia. The grape grows best in rocky, arid ground but is fairly adaptable. The growers main concern is its susceptability to crushing or breaking due to frost, rain or early heat. The merlot berry is reasonably thin-skinned and somewhat prone to rot and mold or other fungus. The wine is usually medium red in color, medium bodied and made for early drinking rather than storing and maturing slowly. It is generally served at room temperature or slightly cooler than room temperature depending on personal taste. Oh, and so I don't get swamped by nay sayers I did not say chilled, just a little above room temperature to properly appreciate its varied aromatic characteristics.

Chardonnay is the classic white wine grape and is widely planted in the Burgundy and Chablis regions of France. It is also grown successfully in California (of course) and Oregon, as well as South America and Australia. The varietal is planted in cool climate regions, usually where the days are warm and the nights are cool. This produces a rich wine with a distinct aroma, possesssing a fruity character (ex: apples, lemons, peaches, or citrus) most often aged in small oak barrels influencing a vanilla flavor from the oak. A good chardonnay has an unmistakable taste because of its sugar / acid balance, its full body and its easy smoothness. The wine is often dry and golden in color and some producers put some of their Chardonnay through MLF or malolactic fermentation, essentially it subjects the grape with bacteria during fermentation which actually softens its acidic qualities, and brings out a rich, buttery taste. This also shortens the life of the wine as far as aging is concerned. In places like Australia, the warm irrigated regions are readily producing this softer richer chardonnay without the need for MLF, and in their own cooler regions the more acidic, crisp and fruity chardonnay. In France the finer Blanc de Blanc Champagnes are made only from Chardonnay. While wood aged Chardonnay is the staple, many consumers are demanding less use of wood which slightly lowers the level of quality and provides a more bland run of the mill taste. In the case of chardonnay, the tried and true methods provide the the better quality and therefore the higher cost. Chardonnay is generally served chilled.

By far the premier red wine grape is Cabernet Sauvignon. It is the most widely planted varity in the Bordeaux region of France, as well as the most successful red wine produced in California. The grapes are small and round with a thick, tough black skin. This toughness makes it fairly resistant to disease since it likes a moderately warm growing season and needs to be well drained from seasonal rains and storms. It develops a very complex bouquet and a multi-berry (dark cherry, black currant) fruit taste that tends to be very tannic or acidic and requires a long slow maturation period. It is very common for Cabernet Sauvignon to age for 18 months or more in small oak barrels to acheive the complex quality of the wine before bottling. Some bottle age the wine for 5-10 years in order for it to reach its peak flavor. I've been told that some of the best vintages in the U.S. come from the New York, mainly Long Island vineyards. The wine has a great aroma, a rich taste, with a hint of a bite as it finishes in the mouth. This outstanding wine is a favorite of collectors as it ages well in the bottle, and actually has a bit of snob-appeal. It is definately a room temperature wine, as chilling will obscure the deep flavors and aroma.

Riesling, also known as Johannisberg Riesling, is considered a noble grape as it has produced some of the rarest and most expensive wines. It is the dominant grape variety in Germany and in other cool regions of Central Europe, and is grown in North-Eastern France, Califorinia and Australia. Riesling can be produced from bone dry to very sweet, but are usually made in dry and semi-dry styles. The cooler temperate climates of North America produce a fruity dry wine with high acid and low alcohol similar to the German "Kabinett" versions, while the semi-dry style is like the German "Spatlese" wines that are sweeter but not overmuch. When Riesling grapes are subjected to a non-toxic mold (Botrytis cinerea) that usually springs from rain after a dry spell, the result is that the grapes shrivel, much of the juice evaporates and the sugars concentrate creating intense but concentrated flavors of a sweeter but long lived wine. Riesling has a powerful and distinctive floral and apple-like aroma, and can be spicey in taste depending on the vineyard. One of my favorites is the Blue Nun Riesling, a great everyday, lets have a drink kinda wine. I enjoy my Riesling chilled, and I'm sure you will too. Just a caution though, when using a good Riesling with dinner, its best if the meal is delicate since the wine has more taste and you wouldn't want the flavors to clash.

When done properly Pinot Noir is one of the best but most difficult grape to grow for wine.
It appears that it grows best in the Burgundy region of France, primarily in an area known as Cote d'Or (Slope of Gold). Here is where consistant success is acheived with this finicky grape.
The vineyards in this area slope gently down towards the East, where the vines are provided with long sun exposure but not the afternoon heat. The soil is chalky providing good drainage which allows the grapes to mature over a longer period of time, helping them to reflect the flavor of the soil more so than any other black grape. Pinot Noir is susceptable to almost every affliction known to vines, spring frosts, bugs, viruses, even birds, all can alter or ruin the grape.
Then if the grapes aren't picked promptly when mature they have a tendancy to shrivel and dry out leaving a raisiny aroma and a somewhat nuetral flavor. Even fermentation is difficult due to the 18 amino acids, which are naturally balanced in this variety. What does all this trouble leave us? Perhaps one of the most complex and intense wines with a with a great black-cherry aroma accented by a spiciness that suggests cinnamon. It is full bodied and rich, but not heavy or full of acid, leaving a soft velvety texture. It caresses you as you drink, leaving a smooth yet elegant taste in your mouth. It is produced in California, Oregon and Australia, but these variety's often lack the attributes of the French. Since it is such a finicky grape it does not have the longevity of some other red wines and usually reaches it peak in about five years.

Shiraz, as its known in Australia, or Syrah from France is a rapidly growing variety of wine. It is a intense wine with deep violet, nearly black color, and a rich flavor that tends to lean towards more spicy than fruity. It is a riper tasting wine yet in warmer Australian climates grows sweeter than the French variety. If you like a full bodied beer, perhaps a dark beer, you will like Shiraz or Syrah. Even though it is associated more with Australia and France, it is also produced in South Africa and California.

Zinfandel was at one time considered a mystery grape. Many say it comes exclusively from California, but most agree that it is a clone variety from the Italian Primitivo grape. The grape makes a good solid red wine and is often used as a blend for jug wines, basically common drinking wines. It has a fruity raspberry like aroma and flavor and generally can be enjoyed as a young wine. Home wine makers like the grape since its hardy and can be shipped without damage . It thrives in both cool to warm climates but does not like excessive heat. Zinfandel is a good basic all around wine to open with company or drink alone. Even though its red I enjoy mine slightly chilled, and its great with just appetizers or grilled steak in a full blown meal. In more recent years white Zinfandel has become very popular. Its really a rose that is slightly sweet with an acid balance.

Now we have only discussed a few more popular wine varietals, there are many more, but maybe you can see with the little we discussed, how these named brands so to speak may imply a purity of variety, even though in reality most are clones or blends. It simply gives less credence to the purists who feel that only by knowing the particular vineyards, the specific grape, and even the winemaker, gives you the right to call yourself an appreciator of wine. I strongly feel that knowing the basics provides an excellent foundation to knowing what you like and becoming your own expert in wine tasting. Do you agree? No? Yes? Let me know.